'Lẩu phân bò' - món đặc sản Quý Châu

Despite its name, which might make some diners hesitant, "cow dung hot pot" is a specialty of Guizhou, favored by locals for its cooling and health-boosting properties.

"Cow dung hot pot" is a prime example of "dark cuisine" in China, a term referring to bizarre food combinations that defy conventional cooking standards.

Originating from the mountainous region of Guizhou in southwestern China, this soup is made from undigested grass secretions from the stomach and small intestines of cows, cow bile, and local herbs.

The preparation process begins with sautéing garlic, ginger, scallions, and Guizhou chili peppers. Beef and offal are stir-fried briefly before the mixture of grass secretions and bile is added and brought to a boil. The broth has a deep olive green color.

The dish has an aroma similar to herbal soups, rather than a foul smell. The broth has a sweet beef flavor (umami) and a bitter aftertaste from the bile and herbs. Diners often enjoy it with a dipping sauce made from dried chili powder, scallions, and minced garlic.

Cow dung hot pot, a specialty of Guizhou. Photo: SCMP

The liquid in the dish is not waste but primary digestive fluid taken from the rumen, the first compartment of the cow's stomach. Before slaughter, cows are fed good grasses and herbs. The fluid obtained from undigested fiber is a mixture rich in chlorophyll and digestive enzymes, similar to a type of herbal tea formed in the animal's body.

This dish is familiar to ethnic minority communities such as the Miao and Dong, who have long been associated with the characteristic limestone mountains of Guizhou. For them, the cow is considered a natural nutrient reservoir. Using rumen fluid is not just for eating, but also a way to absorb nutrients from the environment.

According to traditional medicine principles, extracts from cattle are considered to have medicinal properties. In the humid valleys of Guizhou, people use this broth as a remedy to aid digestion, helping the body absorb nutrients from natural herbs that have been pre-processed in the cow's stomach. This concept is similar to some other traditional medicine systems, in which beef products are considered to have nourishing value.

The broth has an olive green color. Photo: SCMP

The dish reflects how local residents adapt to their limited food resources and living environment, utilizing the digestive system of livestock to extract nutrients from natural grasses and herbs, and using almost the entire animal.

However, this dish still receives mixed opinions. Alex He, executive chef at Anantara Guiyang Resort and also a native of Guizhou, shared that he had never tried this "cow dung hot pot" because he found the ingredients "unacceptable." For him, the characteristic flavor of Guizhou should be sour and spicy, like the egg fried rice with chili and salt that his parents used to make for breakfast when he was a child.

According to Mr. He, the mountainous terrain made Guizhou isolated, limiting its ingredients. People relied on chili peppers, often fermented, to flavor their dishes. This is why signature dishes like sour fish soup or spicy chicken stir-fry have a mild sourness combined with spiciness. Unlike the famous mala (spicy numbing) of Sichuan or Chongqing, Guizhou cuisine uses less Sichuan peppercorn. Instead, it uses fermented chili peppers with a moderate spiciness, creating an aromatic, short-lived spiciness.

Despite the controversy surrounding "cow dung hotpot," it reflects the survival history of mountain communities, where every part of the animal is utilized. From these harsh conditions, the people have developed their own unique tastes, creating a distinct culinary identity.